We got out of camp by 6 AM but had snow and rain storms on and off until around 10 AM. After that, the sun came out to warm us up.
Still snow on most of the trail up high but firm enough today that I did not need to wear snowshoes.
By late morning, we were on a long gradual descent along this creek down to a large valley. Great to be back on dirt for a few miles.
Hiking with Handstand through the valley. Green and lush with wild flowers and butterflies. Feels like we have been transported to a summertime paradise. We decided to take lunch witth Squirrel and Dusr Bunny once we crossed the valley. (Can you see the window?)
Ascending out of the valley towards the window. The plan is to explore the window early tomorrow morning.
Looking back across the valley towards the mountains we were in just a few hours ago. The trail got steeper as we got higher up. My left shoulder is really starting to hurt where the shoulder strap goes over it. Feels like I may have pulled something. Hope it is temporary.
Camping below the window. It was a mix of hail and sun all evening. Cloud and Uberdude joined us and we got word that Freebird (we started the CDT the same day) was camped about half a mile behind us. 13.9 miles, 6:05 hiking.
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Saturday, June 18, 2016
Day 48 (6/13) - Way down and way up
Day 47 (6/12) - The Knife Edge
Up with the sun. Tensions are high as we approach the notorious knife edge.
Underwhelming! There is a nice wide trail over the knife edge. The trail remains up high but all the tracks lead down across the valley and with the avalanche danger, staying low is the safer option.
Looking back at the knife edge. Trail is impassable up high with the avalanche danger. Several avalanches have been witnessed by hikers in the group over the past several days.
More of the same today: snowy traverses, creek crossings, staying low to avoid avalache zones, and plenty of evidence that the snow is melting fast.
Once we got below treeline, waterfalls and creeks around every corner. One more long ascent and we should find a place to camp.
Another awesome camping spot. Uberdude and Cloud joined us later in the afternoon while Squirrel camped about half a mile ahead of us. Great day in the Weminuche, the largest wilderness area in Colorado. 10.9 miles, 5:30 hiking.
Thursday, June 16, 2016
Day 46 (6/11)
More early morning traversing. Burnt shoe is surprisingly comfortable and still seems to be waterproof. The other one continues to hurt for some reason. (My normal hiking shoes are not waterproof, but I wanted something heavier and more cold weather oriented for the San Juans.)
No dirt trail to follow but many tracks. Goal for today is get close enough to the knife edge that we can hit it first thing tomorrow while everything is frozen.
We found an awesome camping spot near a kake and just a mile from the knife edge. We ran into Cloud this afternoon and she joined our group. Uberdude also showed up around 8 PM and camped with us. Group is up to six now which is plenty for the much anticipated knife edge tomorrow. 15.2 miles, 7:15 hiking.
Day 45 (6/10) - Rednecks
Another early morning breaking camp. We try to get an early start in case of afternoon thunderstorms. Hiking with Squirrel, Dust Bunny, and Handstand again today.
Creed cut-off junction. This cuts out around 80 miles of the trail, skipping much of the San Juans and avoiding the snow, but missing out on some of the best part of the trail. We saw a few sets of footprints heading down the cut-off trail but we are set on completing the San Juans.
There are some snow-covered traverses throughout the day but overall less snow than the southern San Juans.
Even some lush green valleys up here. Only two days in but the lack of snow keeps us optimistic and what lays ahead.
Stone rock climber making their way up the mountain. We tried to ask for directions but no response.
Looks like we have our work cut out for us but still less snow than we anticipated so spirits remain high. I broke 800 miles on trail today. Thunderstorm and terrain force us to camp early again. We camped at Piedra Pass and I was able to build a fire in an established fire ring. However, someone left some live ammunition and who knows what else buried in the ashes. About 20 minutes after the fire was going, there was five loud explosions (sounded like gunshots) and a large ball of fire and flames. While I was ducking for cover, the pyrotechnics caught one of my shoes on fire that was sitting several feet away. It definitely was not a good feeling seeing my hiking shoe on fire with five to six days lefto on one of the most difficult sections. I will not know how much damage was done or how it will affect hiking until tomorrow. If the shoe causes too much pain the first few miles, I will have to hike back to Pagosa Springs and get a new pair. 13.7 miles, 5:55 hiking.
Day 44 (6/9) - Long hitch = short day
We checked out of Pinewood Motel around 9 AM started to hitch up to Wolf Creek Pass with seven days of food with the intention of stopping in Silverton (an extra stop) to resupply before heading to Lake City. It took over two hours to get a ride and another half hour to get back to the trail. Handstand and Dust Bunny had better luck and had been waiting for us for about 45 minutes. We were on trail by noon.
Titan and Cowboy Stipper, two hikers I met in Pagosa Springs and hitchhiked up with. They hike later hours than I do so no sure I will see them again.
It did not take long to hit snow. It was firmer on this side of the pass so no snowshoes today. Thunderstorm rolled in so short day and another early pitch. Snow up here looks better and much less of it, so keeping our hopes up this section is doable. 7 miles, 3:15 hiking.
Day 42 (6/7) - Nero in Pagosa Springs
Overlooking the reservoir we camped next to last night. All my gear is wet from camping so close to water.
Make your own trail... no easy way back to the CDT due to the bailout yesterday so we decide to hike to the highway and walk that to the pass.
Wolf Creek ski resort. Just a couple miles to the pass.
South San Juans complete. Time for some rest and relaxation. It took 5+ days to get here so we made good time considering the conditions.
We will hitch the 25 miles to Pagosa Springs and resupply today and zero tomorrow. There should be a number of hikers to catch up with here. Only a handful have ventured north of Wolf Creek Pass. 3.6 miles, 1:35 hiking.
Day 41 (6/6) - Bailout
Trail was a little hard to follow this morning. I took a bearing and tried to just go cross-country to the next pass but ended up at a steep cliff and had to backtrack and find the trail to make the descent.
More traversing. By midmorning, John, Squirrel, Handstand, Dust Bunny and I ended up at the same pass and started hiking together.
Finally no snow on the trail. Bare trail was intermittent and we enjoyed it while we could.
Our intention was to camp near Wolf Creek Pass and hitch in early tomorrow morning. This picture was taken about 20 minutes before another thunderstorm rolled in and we had to quickly bail out down the side of the mountain before reaching the ski resort. We dropped about 1000 feet, mostly glisading until we reached a reservoir where we had to camp in less than ideal conditions. I was able to build a small fire after it stopped raining to dry out my socks. Pagosa Springs will have to wait until tomorrow! 7.4 miles, 3:35 hiking.
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
Day 40 (6/5) - Wet Afternoon
Good morning Colorado! A look back down the valley towards where I camped last night. Long climb ahead, hoping it got cold enough last night to firm up the snow. Wearing crampons this morning.
Looking back where John and I just came across. I caught up with John this morning. I ran out of fuel last night but was able to trade a new canister (that John had been carrying since southern New Mexico) for some trail mix and some of my homemade jerky. That is Squirrel, Handstand, and Dust Bunny in the distance. Wearing snowshoes here for the last couple hours.
Snowshoes, ice axe, and crampons. I needed and used them all this section. Too much time spent putting gear on and then taking it back off but they made this section doable.
Around 2 PM at Elwood Pass, the clouds started to roll in and Squirrel, Handstand, and Dust Bunny decided to make camp. John and I hiked on with the intention of making it to Wolf Creek Pass by the following evening. The weather had other plans, as it gradually started to rain and then thunderstorm. By 4 PM, ran turned into hail and snow so we tried to find shelter in the trees. I ended up using my ground tarp as a makeshift shelter while it stormed. I got very wet and cold and tried to warm up with a hot meal and hot chocolate. By 6 PM the storm had stopped and I decided to hike until I was warmed up.
Snow and ice everywhere. Any tracks that were ahead are now hidden under the snow. John stayed behind in the trees, he had already pitched his tent.
Very picturesque walking through the woods with everything covered in fresh snow. I was inclined to sing some Christmas carols which brightened my mood.
After a couple hours of hiking, my clothes were dry and I was warmed up so my plan worked. I found a place to pitch on this ridge that was somewhat windy which helped dry everything else out. First pitch on snow, a good test for my NeoAir X-therm. Not a bad view. A valley behind those mountains is where I camped last night. 14.6 miles, 7:15 hiking.
Thursday, June 9, 2016
Day 39 (6/4) - The Bubble
Up with the sun. Looks like I might get above treeline today. I small group of hikers passed me this morning while I was breaking camp. Must be the tracks I was following yesterday.
Hikers ahead breaking trail. I am wearing my crampons this morning, snow is still firm enough this early that snowshoes are not needed. Crampons might be overkill but I did not feel safe when using microspikes on the last stretch before Chama.
A look at the next valley we have to cross. We are heading over the ridge in the distance. That is Handstand and Hikerbox in the foreground.
At the bottom of the valley we got some water. The trail is actually higher than this but I cut down through the valley to avoid the traverse. No evidence of a trail anywhere in all this snow.
Climbing/traversing up out of the valley. A look across to where we came down about an hour before. Squirrel, Handstand, and Dust Bunny are hiking with me now. I end up breaking trail since my lungs seem to be holding up better. As we cross over the ridge, I see a cairn and two more hikers. ABC and Snapshot are taking a break and drying gear. I do not like to stop for breaks and press on.
There is some flatter terrain for a short while wher I catch up to John, on of the warrior hikers. We cross over a ridge to find another steep descent. The trail has switchbacks here but impossible to follow in the snow. I gradually head down and end up glisading much of the descent.
A look back at where we came down. ABC and Snapshot caght up with me on the descent. It looks like Squirrel, Handstand, and Dust Bunny are taking the same route.
From the left: ABC, Handstand, Snapshot, Squirrel, and Dust Bunny. Handstand is also using crampons while the others have microspikes. I hiked around them most of the day. We take turns breaking trail. It is nice to have others to hike with in this terrain.
We end up camping in the bottom of this valley near the west end. The plan is to hit the ascent while it is frozen tomorrow morning. I meet Speedstik for the first time! She has already done the Appalachian Trail this year and is attempting to complete the Triple Crown in a calendar year. I hiked with her for about an hour before finding a place to camp. As soon as I got my tent pitched, it started to hail, then snow, then rain! This lasted almost three hours. It finally stopped around 7 and I was able to build a fire and dry my gear out over the next few hours. Totally amazing day in the south San Juans! Cannot wait until tomorrow! 11.8 miles, 6:35 hiking.
Day 38 (6/3) - Winter Wonderland
I passed by Dipping Lakes early this morning. Started off with my crampons for a short traverse through some trees but ended up having to switch to snowshoes once the terrain flattened out.
I almost stepped on these guys. They are not very skittish and ignored my presence.
Found some tracks to follow. Looks like about five others with snowshoes. These tracks did not always follow the official trail so I ran into them on and off throughout the day.
Looking ahead. Not sure this would be fun without snowshoes. I did find two sets of footprints that were from trail runners so at least a couple hikers braved this area without snowshoes.
A view from near where I camped last night. I was able to find a small dry patch under some trees but it was too uneven to get much sleep. I ended up having to melt snow to make dinner and water for the night. It used up a lot more fuel than expected due to the elevation. 15 miles, 7:15 hiking.